The same backyard maple with the crown reduced and the cuttings on the lawn

Tree service in Dublin, Ohio

Dublin is the far corner of our map, and it is on the map on purpose. The driveway across town is our problem to plan, never yours to apologise for: the window you book is the window we arrive in, same as it is five minutes from our yard. The work out here leans toward keeping good trees good, and that suits us fine.

Lots that were built around their trees

A lot of Dublin’s newer, larger lots were laid out with mature trees kept deliberately: an oak or a walnut that is older than the street it now shades. A tree like that cannot be bought, only grown, and it is worth real money to the property, which changes the arithmetic. On streets where a tree is cheap and young, removal is often the sensible answer. Where the tree is the best thing on the lot, the sensible answer is usually an inspection, a careful prune, sometimes a cable in the right fork, and removal only when the tree has actually failed.

One pattern worth knowing if your house is newer than its biggest tree: the damage construction does to roots does not show the year the house is built. A tree that had machinery parked over its roots, or grade changed around it, can decline five or ten years later, from the top down. If a kept tree has started thinning at the crown, that history is the first question we will ask. The newer plantings out here have their own habits too: ornamental pears that split at their tight forks in wind, and honey locust, a fine street tree whose leaflets at least have the manners to disappear into the lawn in fall.

Keeping a tree you cannot replace

  1. Inspection before intervention We look at the whole tree: the forks, the base, the ground around the roots, what has changed since it was young. The plan comes from that, not from a catalog of services.
  2. Prune for structure, not appearance Deadwood out, overextended limbs shortened to sound growth, weight taken off weak forks. The tree should look like itself afterward, only safer.
  3. Cable the fork that is worth saving A good tree with one questionable union can carry a support system high in the crown and keep standing for years. See cabling and bracing.
  4. Never top it Topping is the one thing we will refuse to do to a good tree. The regrowth is weakly attached, the wounds do not close, and the tree ends up more dangerous than before, not less.
  5. Recheck after big weather A storm is an exam. After a serious blow, the forks and cables get looked at again, because damage you catch early is pruning and damage you catch late is removal.

Whose tree is it, out front?

Same rule in Dublin as everywhere in central Ohio: the strip between the sidewalk and the street is usually the city’s ground, and the tree standing in it is usually the city’s tree, however long you have raked its leaves. Before you book anyone to touch a street-side tree, check whose it is. On the free visit we will help you work out where the line runs, and quote only for what is actually yours.

Our work

The trade, wherever the street is

A tree-lined residential street in Reynoldsburg, Ohio
A tree-lined residential street, the kind we work every week.
The A.S.H. bucket truck with its boom over a roof and the crew working on the ridge
The boom over a roof, the crew working the ridge line.
An arborist examining the base of a tree trunk and writing notes
Examining the base of a trunk and taking notes, the start of every job.
Questions

Dublin questions, straight answers

You are based on the east side. Do you really cover Dublin?

Yes, and not grudgingly. We plan Dublin jobs into the schedule the way we plan everything: you pick the window, the driveway is our business, and the truck is there when we said it would be. The only thing distance changes is that we like to make the visit count, so have us look at everything while we are on the lot.

Is cabling a fork really better than removing the tree?

For a good tree with one weak union, often yes. A properly installed cable high in the crown takes the load off the fork and can keep a mature tree standing safely for years, at a fraction of what removal costs, with the shade and the property value kept. It is not right for every tree, and we will say plainly when it is not. See cabling and bracing.

The builder kept big trees on our lot and one is thinning at the top. Why now?

Very likely the construction itself, catching up. Roots crushed by machinery or buried under a grade change die slowly, and the crown shows it years later. Whether the tree can be helped depends on how far it has gone, which is exactly what the free visit is for. The earlier we see it, the more options you have.

Should I have my tree topped so it is safer in storms?

No, and be wary of anyone who offers. Topping replaces a tree’s sound limbs with a brush of fast, weakly attached regrowth and leaves wounds the tree cannot close. It makes the tree more dangerous within a few years, not less. The right tool is a proper crown reduction: pruning back to sound growth points.

Can I remove the tree between the sidewalk and the street myself?

Almost certainly not: that strip is usually the city’s ground and the tree in it is the city’s tree. Check with the city before touching it, whoever you hire. Trees on your own land are a different matter, and in most of central Ohio no permit is needed to remove one that is genuinely yours.

A second opinion on a tree worth keeping, free

Book a window and we will cross town for it. You get an honest read on the tree, the options in plain words, and any price in writing.